By Chris Sidwells

Step by step images indicates readers how one can fresh, retain and service their bicycles. This handbook additionally positive factors troubleshooting charts to assist diagnose difficulties and establish which components to wash and regulate.

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Additional resources for Bike Repair Manual

Example text

The front of the bike is diving under braking because the fork is not stiff enough. Pump in air, or increase pre-load, according to the type of fork on your bike. ) The fork’s rebound is set too fast. Use the relevant adjuster to reduce the speed of the fork’s rebound. ) Insufficient air in the shock, or too much damping, means that the shock is not returning from each compression quickly enough. Set up the sag on the shock again. If the problem continues, use the damping adjustment to speed up the action of the shock.

Place metal ferrules on the cut end of each outer so that it fits snugly into the cable guide. • Finally, pull the cable through the barrel adjuster and cable-clamp bolt. Then tighten the bolt with the Allen key. Put the rear shifter in the smallest sprocket and the front shifter in the smallest chainring. Remove the old cable from under the hood cover. 2 • Grease the new cable and push it through the hole under the hood cover. Dribble oil into a cable outer, which should be cut to fit between the cable guide and the component.

Cables are under constant tension and need to be replaced regularly and kept well lubricated. They must also be inspected often and replaced if they show signs of wear. Shifters require only occasional lubrication of their inner workings. How they work An inner cable connects the gear-shifter to the mech, and allows the rider to change gear. Gear-shifts made by a gear shifter cause the front mech to shift the chain from one chainring to another, or the rear mech to shift the chain from one sprocket to another.

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